LED Light Strip Istallation Tips


if you have any questions.
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RV Interior /Lights- Replacement

  • Color is your preference but pure white is suggested in the living areas with Natural White for reading or in bathrooms. Warm White is suggested also for reading or bedrooms.

  • LED lights are very durable but it helps if your hands are not oily during install.


  • Grasp the base and the light to remove the incandescent and install the LED.

  • Try to hold the LED close to its base.

  • These lights have polarity, if it doesn't light, remove and rotate it 180 degrees.


  • Push and turn anticlockwise to remove, push and turn clockwise for install.

  • Careful not to install in a BA15D base because it will blow your breaker or fuse.

BA15D (1076)

  • These lights have a + and – terminal on the base that are polarity sensitive. If they do not light when installed turn them 180 degrees and reinstall

BA15SG 3 Watt

  • Push and turn anticlockwise to remove, push and turn clockwise for install.

  • Careful not to install in a BA 15D base because it will blow your breaker or fuse.

BA15D (1157 Signal Light)

  • Two terminal signal light. Has offset pins so it can only be installed one way.


  • Are polarity sensitive so if they do not light, turn 180 degrees and reinstall.

  • The pins are made long on purpose, but can be trimmed for easier install.

RV Strip Lighting

RV Strip Lighting- outside

  • Plan the position and power supply to the controller so you have access to the controller buttons and can operate the strip without the remote (compartment or cupboard) (See LED Controllers blow).
  • Plan your wire from the controller to the strip so it is hidden as much as possible e.g. If you have a power awning, run your wires down that awning arm.
  • Clean the surface where the aluminum track is to be mounted with alcohol.
  • Start inserting the strip from the power wire end and cut the strip to length as required at the other end.
  • If it becomes difficult to insert the strip into the track, use a carpenters pencil and run it inside the track grove to widen the track edges a bit.
  • Seal the cut strip end with a silicone cap with a bit of silicone in it.
  • Slightly crimp the ends of the aluminum strip over the strip and use silicone to bond the strip ends into the track and onto the trailer to prevent wind damage.
  • You can use a hard plastic (like the plastic on an OLFA knife) to rubback and forth on the bottom of the installed track to SLIGHTLY bend the track towards the strip trapping the strip into the track.  BE CAREFUL NOT to bulge or damage the strip.  To SLIGHTLY bend the top of the track you can use a small metal scraper (1-2 inch) to carefully bend the top edge of the track.  NOTE: DO NOT over bend the track and damage the strip!
  • Enjoy!!
LED Controllers

  • Controllers are available for single color strips, (W,R,G,B etc.) and for multi-color strips (RGB)
  • Controllers require 12 volt input from a battery, or an LED driver. Be sure to observe polarity and connect the power to the INPUT side of the controller.
  • The wire that goes from the controller to the strip must be connected with correct polarity to the OUTPUT side of the controller.
  • The strip can be controller with a remote or with the buttons on the controller. If you push both dimmer arrows at the same time on the controller or remote, the strip will FLASH. Simply press them at the same time again to stop the flashing.
  • Color controllers also require 12V input from a battery or an LED Driver Red+ Black-.
  • Color strips usually have Red, Blue, Green and a Black wire.
  • The controller output colors are, Red, Blue, Green and White.
  • Remember that:
    • Red goes to red for the RED LED.
    • Green goes to GREEN for the GREEN LED.
    • Blue goes to BLUE for the BLUE LED.
    • NOTE: the BLACK from the strip connects to the WHITE wire on the controller output.
  • The color strip can then be controlled with a remote or, with the buttons on the controller.
  • Enjoy

Drivers (power supplies)

  • Always use an LED certified driver or battery to prevent damage to your LED's.
  • Drivers are available in a variety of amperages, try to use a dimer that will operate at 60% to 80% of its rated maximum output.
  • Drivers are available in open frame (non-waterproof IP20) or, for damp locations, water proof designs (waterproof IP67).


  • To prevent damage to lighting strips normally only one 5m strip of 5050 60 LEDS/m or two 5m strips of 30 LEDs/m should be operated with a single LED Driver (Power Supply). li>
  • We carry CCS or constant current lighting strips so up to four 5m strips can operate from a single driver
  • If you wish to exceed these lengths and control all the strips with a single controller (remote) then you can use AMPLIFIERS to extend the length indefinitely.
  • Amplifiers are available in 12A or 20A and require 12 to 24V LED driver input.
  • Amplifier input requires a 2.1mm male plug on the power supply output cord.

Tube Lights

  • No ballast is required so the old one can be disabled or removed.
  • None of the old wiring is required except for the wires coming into the fixture. Cut the wires coming into the old fluorescent fixture and connect the positive to the RED wire on the LED tube. The black wire on the rube connects to the negative wire.
  • If the fixture has a switch, cut the wire coming out of the switch and connect it to the RED wire on the LED tube.
  • Find the ground (negative) in the fixture and connect it to the BLACK wire on the LED tube. The switch just interrupts the current on the RED wire (positive).
  • Use the wiring harness provided or cut the connectors off the tube light wire and connect directly with a Mariette connector.
  • The pins on the ends of the tube are for holding the light in the fixture- no power goes to them.
  • Get the 12V power where it enters the fixture, or if there is a switch on the fixture, use the light side of the switch for your power source so the switch still operators the new LED light.

Soldering Strips---- Tips

  • IP65- cut the strip as required on the cut lines (copper). Carefully remove the silicone from the strip that is over the copper soldering points.
  • Use a wire brush to shine up the copper and put a small amount of fine electrical solder on each copper point.
  • Prepare the wire ends with a small drop of solder so when the wire is pressed on to the soldering point and heated, they will melt together.
  • Use 18 GA wire or, if using 16 GA on color strips, reduce the size of the wire to app 16 GA so it has room to solder onto the strip soldering points.
  • If a color strip, observe the order color of wires of the original strip not the letters of the strip. They are always not identical.
  • Test the strip.
  • Use silicone and heat shrinkable tubing to seal the end.
  • IP68 – roll back the outer sheath before removing the silicone over the soldering points.
  • Solder as above IP65.
  • Use a silicone end cap with 2 or 4 holes with a bit of silicone to hold the cap and seal the end.
  • Use a no holes end cap on the other end to seal it as well.
  • If you have problems getting the solder to melt onto the wire or soldering points, use a bit of soldering paste on the part to be solder before heating.

Please call 403-358-8878 if you have any questions.
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